Accurate
Miniatures 1/48 North
American B-25C Mitchell
Model, Article and Photos by Tony
Bell
Introduction
Of all the reference
books in my somewhat large collection, Dana Bell’s Air Force Colors, Vol. 2
ETO & MTO 1942-1945 has undoubtedly provided the most inspiration as far as
colour schemes is concerned. One of colour profile in particular has always
caught my eye, that of an early production B-25C in olive drab over white
maritime anti-submarine warfare markings on page 41. My preferred scale being
1:48, it wasn’t until the Accurate Miniatures released their Mitchell that I
could build a model in these distinctive markings.
This model
actually started life as an original boxing of the
Accurate Miniatures
B-25B, which doesn’t quite have all the parts needed to build a ‘C. Accurate
Miniatures issued a conversion kit that allowed the ‘G version to be built from
the ‘B kit, which fortuitously also provided all the bits necessary for the C/D,
including the enlarged carburettor intakes, cockpit canopy, exhausts and tail
skid. Don Fenton's
feature article on
Accurate Miniatures B-25G Conversion and B-25 Variants
proved invaluable for sorting out which parts were needed.
Construction
As usual, I started construction
with the cockpit. The kit seats were quite poor and didn’t resemble the real
thing in any way. I used the B-25B photoetch set from Eduard to replace the
seats and lap belts, with seat cushions made from epoxy putty and stencilling
printed on bubble jet compatible decal paper. The knobs on the ends of the
Eduard throttle levers were made from blobs of super glue. Fortunately Eduard
provides a couple of spares to replace the ones that fly off into a parallel
universe. I considered using the Eduard instrument panel, but ultimately decided
that the kit panel looked better and so used it instead. The kit panel is
moulded in clear plastic with a reverse-printed instruments decal that is
applied to the back of the panel. I added a few cables on the sidewalls to
augment those already moulded on.
The bombardier’s compartment
also benefited from the Eduard set which supplied ammunition box brackets and
lap belts. I also nicked an oxygen bottle from the Verlinden B-17 update set to
attach to the rear bulkhead, along with a hose made by wrapping fine copper wire
around some thicker solder. The Norden bombsight was detailed with bits of
styrene but only I can tell, of course.
To
make an accurate ‘C model, I added the small oval window to the right side of
the fuselage, just above the wing trailing edge. Using the other nearby window
as a template, I made the new one from a CD jewel case and cut a corresponding
hole in the fuselage.
The bomb bay and bomb bay doors
were painted silver, and the details picked out with a wash consisting of a
mixture of Polly Scale satin and India ink. The rest of the interior was
assembled and painted per the instructions. I treated the insides to an oil
paint wash of burnt umber and removed the excess with a paper towel moistened
with thinner. I followed this with a drybrushing of oil paints and painted the
details with Humbrol enamels. Once the fuselage was closed up absolutely none of
this was at all
visible (of course). The kit supplies nose weights in the form
of brass sheet which is inserted into the nose behind
the cockpit. I found that
the weight provided was just a shade too little, so more weight in the form of
steel ball bearings was added behind the engines.
Because of all the stuff inside
the fuselage, it was a bit of a challenge to get it all aligned properly before
gluing the halves together. Unfortunately I didn’t quite manage to do it right
and ended up with a slight, but visible, twist to the fuselage which had to be
steamed straight.
The kit
transparencies are thin and clear, although the shape of the canopy and
bombardier’s glazing have been the target of criticism on internet discussion
boards. Squadron offers a set of replacement canopies that address the shape
issues, and while admittedly they offer a visible improvement, the original
parts were good enough to me.

The nose
glazing fit perfectly, but the cockpit canopy had to be shimmed with 0.010”
styrene to close the gap at the aft end. The navigator’s astrodome has a funky
shape so I replaced it with a home vacuformed piece and added a black dot
punched from a spare decal (what this dot was for, I have no idea). As well, the
dome of the Martin gun turret suffered from some mould release scars, so I
vacuformed a replacement over a master taken from the turret out of the old
Monogram B-26 Marauder kit. The turret also received brass details from the
Eduard photoetch set and resin gun bodies from Aires. The barrels of all of the
machineguns were replaced with hypodermic tubing and Eduard cooling jackets. To
roll the jackets I first annealed them over a candle and wrapped them around
ever smaller drill bits until the correct diameter was achieved.
The tail blister was replaced
with a much thinner home vacuformed piece which was attached with Future. The
position lights were MV model railroad lenses. Because it was quite visible, I
sanded and filled the inside fuselage seam and replaced the stringers with
Evergreen styrene strip.
The
wings required a bit of filling, sanding and rescribing around where the engine
nacelles attached. The drain tubes at the aft end of the nacelles were replaced
with hypo tubing. Other tweaks to the wings included drilling little holes in
the
leading edges and replacement navigation lights from epoxy putty tinted with
Tamiya clear red and green. The tailplane required some shimming to get it to
fit just so, and I cut the elevators free and repositioned them slightly
drooped. The position lights on the fuselage and tail planes were also made from
drops of clear epoxy glue.

The engines also received some
extra detail in the form of Evergreen styrene stock pushrods and ignition wires
made from fine solder. The Eduard set includes ignition harnesses, but in my
opinion they’re too
flat and 2-dimensional looking. The much-debated kit engine
cowlings were tossed in favour of the Cutting Edge resin replacements that have
a more accurate profile and larger opening. The resin cowls have a (correct)
circular cross section, whereas the kit cowls are slightly oval. Because of
this, some surgery was required to get the kit cooling flaps to match up with
the resin cowl. If I were to do it over again, I would simply enlarge the cowl
openings and deal with the slightly off profile. The kit exhausts look lumpy so
I replaced them with sections of soda straw of the appropriate diameter.
Using the Squadron-Signal
B-25 Walk-Around as a reference, the main landing gear was detailed with
solder, piano wire and Eduard bits. The diamond tread patterns on the main tires
were laboriously rescribed with a razor saw to give them more definition. The
sprue attachment point on the nose gear leg was on the oleo strut, and because
of the somewhat brittle plastic used by Accurate Miniatures, I was unable to
clean it up properly. I decided instead to cut the oleo cylinder off and replace
it with styrene rod. To give it strength, I carefully drilled down the axis of
the gear leg and glued a steel pin in place with super glue. The oleo scissors
on all three gear legs were replaced with ones from the Eduard set. The landing
gear was painted with Alclad Aluminum and given a wash of Polly Scale satin and
ink.

The antenna posts were replaced
with sections of steel wire that I hammered flat, and the antenna wires
themselves were made from monofilament nylon thread painted Humbrol Metalcote
steel. I made the insulators from short lengths of heat stretched (a la
stretched sprue) Evergreen styrene tubing threaded on to the aerials and fixed
in place with a bit of Future. After supergluing the aerials in place I
tightened them up by gently heating them with a hair dryer.
Painting, Decals and Weathering
I used
Tamiya tape to mask all of the clear parts. Although the kit came supplied with
vinyl masks, they were not the correct size. Subsequent Accurate Miniatures
boxings addressed this issue.
After pre-shading the panel
lines and recesses with a dark, browninsh-grey mix of Tamiya paints I painted
the undersides Poly Scale white, which was quite translucent and required
multiple coats to achieve good coverage. The upper surfaces were painted
Aeromaster acrylic Olive Drab 41 and Aeromaster enamel U.S. Medium Green 42.
Fading was accomplished by spraying heavily thinned Aeromaster Olive Drab 41
Faded in a patchy, random pattern,
followed by a similar application of Tamiya
buff.
The national insignia were
masked with frisket paper and sprayed, while the nose art was printed up on an
ALPS MD-1000 printer, courtesy of a fellow IPMS Toronto member. The tail numbers
came from a generic Aeromaster sheet.
Some minor paint chipping was
added with Humbrol 11 silver, and the panel lines received a wash of burnt umber
oil paint, followed by “post shading” with a heavily thinned mixture (95%
isopropyl alcohol) of the same brownish grey used for pre-shading. A slurry of
ground pastels (this before I discovered MiG pigments) and water was used to
dirty up the areas of heavy ground crew traffic, and oil paints were used for
the oil and grime streaking on the cowls and nacelles. The exhaust stains were
sprayed with Tamiya paints, again heavily thinned.
Of course good old Murphy has to
stick his big nose into most of my builds,
and
this time he
man
ifested himself
in the form of none other that Dana Bell himself. After seeing my finished
Mitchell on the web,
Mr. Bell (no relation) sent me some images that he had
acquired after the publication of Air Force Colors, Vol. 2. The pictures
clearly depict my subject aircraft and there on the nose in block capital
letters is the name “CINDY”, in a light colour, possibly yellow. It is also
clear that the real aircraft was not nearly as grubby and dirty as I had
depicted it. Oh well, if anyone ever calls me to task on it I’ll just claim that
my model depicts the airplane after the
pilot broke up with “Cindy” and was so
depressed that he didn’t care how clean his plane was any more!
Conclusion
When the first
incarnation of this kit was released in 2000 it quickly became the subject of
highly polarized debate on internet discussion boards. On the one hand it was
praised for its stunning and comprehensive detail, while on the other hand it
was damned for shape issues concerning the engine cowls, bombardier’s glazings
and canopy. Aftermarket corrections for both of these have been released in the
form of resin cowls (from Cutting Edge and Quickboost) and Squadron vacuformed
clear bits. The kit its self has a bit of a convoluted history, first appearing
in its initial guise from the original Accurate Miniatures. After the demise of
Accurate Miniatures, there was a period when it was unavailable, save for eBay
and other second hand sources. The kit was resurrected with the phoenix-like
rebirth of Accurate Miniatures, and it has also been reboxed in recent months by
Italeri.
It can be built straight
from the box into an impressive model, or it can be dressed up with any
combination of the loads of aftermarket detail currently available. Either way
it is an enjoyable, if not slightly challenging, build.

Models and Accessories:
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Reference Material:
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